Feeling love for this food

The Wooden Angel is worthy of praise

You’d have to be a log not to feel romance in the air at the Wooden Angel, a family-run restaurant in Beaver, Pa., which specializes in American wines. Angel sculptures appear to sprinkle love dust everywhere around the restaurant’s red walls to the point where the place exudes passion. A tacky spotlight in the shape of a heart shines on one wall leaving no doubt that love is in the air.

Kitsche aside, the outrageously great food and friendly staff make for a great experience in dining. The menu is famous among locals for its thin-crust skillet breads that have such names as Pierogi Bob and Duck Bread. The chef actually tops the bread with duck and a perfect compliment of apple, Brie and goat cheese.

Our waitress, Boni, also recommended the roasted five-onion soup. It arrived dripping in mozzarella and chock-full of red, yellow and white onions, shallots and scallions. For the main course, we selected smoked mozzarella raviolis and chicken with roasted potatoes and sautéed vegetables. A guy at the next table was dining on a beautiful, thick slab of rare prime rib. The food was so good that my friend practically stabbed the waitress in the hand with a fork when she tried to take away a plate with a few morsels of veggies. "My compliments to the chef," she said.

Reservations are recommended at the 40-year-old Wooden Angle that was full Saturday night of smiling people, some of whom embraced between courses. The staff worked tirelessly to please. After dinner, a waiter actually escorted me through the smoky bar and to the rest room that is hidden behind a wall. The menu is a bit pricey but it’s no wonder this place has won so many awards.